DarkLordOfOptics
Politics • Science & Tech • Sports
Rimfire optics.
Scoping a Ruger 10/22
September 01, 2022

I get a lot of questions sent to me via private messages on different platforms.  I try to answer everything when I can, although at this point, I do not think I get to all of them.  There are a lot of questions and not a lot of time.  That's one of the reasons I started this community.  It is my primary focus.
However, when I do get an interesting question that is specific enough to make a substantive post, I bring it here.  Also, Locals seems to be rolling out a better text editor with a function the call "Create Article".  This is a good opportunity to try it out.


This came in from a gentleman I have talked to before and the question is timely since a couple of 10/22 projects are close to wrap and I plan to talk about them a bit shortly.

I’m looking into an optic for a 10/22 that I use for hunting cottontail rabbit in my yard and would like to practice long range shooting fundamentals with it as well. I have a 100yd range in my yard as well. I think I’d like a mil tree, close adjustable parallax, good turrets, and zero stop. Athlon has several options that were attractive, I think my top end budget would be at the Ares ETR UHD for 725, or XTR3i for 864 (I would then put my favorite between the 7 Conquer and one of those on my 308 gas gun and the other on my 10/22). Those are a bit more than I really want to spend, and was more considering the Helos BTR 2-12, Ares BTR 2.5-15, Kentucky Long 2-12 or 3-18 all ranging from 350-600. The obvious shortcoming of the Swampfox being no zero stop, but I’m not experienced enough to know if that should really sway my decision.

This was followed up a day or so later with an addendum:

I just came across the meopta optika6 3-18x50 FFP mrad 1 rd to add to my list. Seems to check all the boxes minus being in that upper price range.

This is a really well worded question because of how many specifics are in there.  When I am asked a good question, I can usually provide an appropriately actionable answer.

We are dealing with some verson of a 10/22 that is accurate enough for small game hunting, plinking and proper long range practice, so the scope needs to have parallax that adjusts down to at least 25 yards. It needs to have enough magnification to engage fairly small targets out to about 400 yards (I assume that he will take it out of his backyard 100yard range at some point).  It needs to have enough adjustment range to accomodate 400yard drop with 22LR.  Once again, I do not know if he will ever go that far, but if I am setting up a scope for a rimfire trainer, I want to make sure it is capable of that.  400 yards with a 10/22 is VERY hard.  It is very hard with any rimfire, to be honest, but it is nice to have a goal.  On the other hand, the bulk of his shooting for a while is likely to be at 100 yards and in.  A fair amount will be on small game, possibly shooting fairly quickly.  With that in mind, while we set up for long range, it is important to not compromise shooting at closer distance on small and mobile targets.  That means we need to keep low magnification at 3x or thereabouts.

High magnification is open to interpretation, but given that rimfire targets tend to be very small, I would keep it at above 15x.

To reach 400yards (admittedly a stretch goal), you will need around 20mrad of turret adjustment after zeroing, but that can be combined with reticle holds.  Since he is looking for a scope with a tree reticle, it is a fairly viable way to go, though not ideal.

Now, the gentleman asking the question clearly understands all of that, given the scopes he is asking about.  He also clearly states he would prefer to stay under $600, but can go a little higher if he has to.

Before we go onto the specific recommendations, there is also a questoin of how necessary the zero stop is.  To be blunt, if you plan to spend a lot of time twisting turrets, it is pretty nice to have.  More improtantly, given that there are plenty of options out there with a zero stop, I would not by a scope (for this application) without one.  

Let's go over the scopes he mentions:

Athlon Ares ETR UHD, presumably the 3-18x50 model.  I am not sure where he found it for $725, since it seems to be around $1k in most places.  This is a very good option. magnification range is just about right.  Ares ETR scopes have very good image quality and unexpectedly good turrets.  APLR6 MIL reticle is very good: just enough of everything without unnecessary crap.  Total elevation adjustment is right around 32 mrad, so if you put it on a 20 or 30MOA slopes base, it is likely to have enough adjustment for 400yards.  Between that and the reticle you are all set.  It also focuses down to 10 yards.  In other words, it is a really excelent rimfire scope for general purpose use from plinking to precision shooting.  https://bit.ly/3P4yzBO

Burris XTR3i 3.3-18x50 should probably be the top choice here, but until I spend some time with it, I can't give it a full endorsement.  The prototypes looked very good.  Once again, I have no idea where he found it for $864.  It has even more adjustment range than the Athlon at 35mrad and a really wide FOV.  SCR2 is an excellent reticle.  Pending a full review, it really should be a top choice.  Now, I do not see XTR3i scopes listed around a whole lot yet.  Most of what I see is for the original US-made XTRIII.  While it is a really excellent design, the reticle is thing and not illuminated.  For me, that is a show stopper, but YMMV: https://bit.ly/3Q7O6RN

Athlon Helos BTR 2-12x42 is a really nice scope and I actually had it on my 10/22 for a bit.  In the end, I decided to put it on a different gun.  I think the reticle on it is designed for DMR-ish applicatoins and the center dot is too big for me to use on a rimfire.  If it w a dedicated rabbit hunting gun, that's a different ballgame, but I prefer a smaller aiming dot for 22LR applications.  For general purpose hunting, it is a great reticle though with good visibility across the board https://bit.ly/3CPU9XZ  It is a bit less magnification than I'd want for long range training purposes, but if we take that down a notch, it does have clsoe focus and 32mrad of adjustment.  It is a solid choice, but check on whether the reticle will work for you.

Athlon Ares BTR Gen2 2.5-15x50 really looks good on paper.  It also looks good in person.  It is not quite as good as Ares ETR, but it is also less money.  APRS5 is a good reticle, but ETR's APRS6 is better.  It also has 29mrad of adjustment, which makes it a little harder to make it to 400 yards.  It is a very good option for the money, but if you want to go with Athlon, I would be very tempted to just step up to the ETR with its extra adjustment and wider FOV eyepiece.  Either way, it is a very workable option with good close focus and lighter weight https://bit.ly/3wPAbc6

SwampFox Kentucky Long scope are quite good.  I reviewed one and have seen several more.  My basic problem is that they do not have a zero stop.  That having been said, if you do plan to ush the rifle to 400 yards and prefer to hold with the reticle, Kentucky Long 3-18x50 with Recce Mil reticle should be on your list.  It is very good image for the money.  3-18x50 would be my choice here https://bit.ly/3Q7U459

What else is out there that might work?  Well, I ahve a couple of 10/22 rifles, one is a takedown with a compact scope, but the other one is sorta relevant here.  It is my experiment with a fast twist precision 10/22 barrel.  It sits in the Titan stock and wears the new Element Titan 3-18x50 scope: https://bit.ly/3bBFfJP

As you have already figured out, I like the 3-18x configuration on these crossover rimfire designs and Titan kinda checks all boxes here: it focuses down to 10yards, has a very good APR-2D reticle, tracks like a champ and offers 43mrad of adjustment range.  It is a near ideal crossover rimfire scope for my purposes.

The outside option here and the likely bang for the buck choice is probably the US Optics 3-12x44 that you can still, incredibly, get from Eurooptic for $350: https://bit.ly/3fmvgpD  It is short, light, has close focus and 30mrad of adjustment.  There are three things it does not have though: illumination, tree reticle and zero stop.  That's the scope I have on my other 10/22 and it is a perfect there, but illumination and zero stop would definitely take it to another level.  Optomechanically though, it really works well while being really lightweight and short.

Lastly, if you are not planning to go to 400 yards, i.e. if you do not need all that much elevation adjustment, looking for a used Vortex PST Gen2 3-15x44 might not be a bad idea.  It check every other box.  Meopta Optika6 3-18x50 is sorta in the same category.  I amclearly partial to this design since it has my reticle in it and it does work well, but with 26mrad of adjustment, it is best to stay with 200yards on a 22LR.  Very nice design otherwise.

 

 

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Spartan's CP Brace: Initial Impressions
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Visiting with TacomHQ

This week was my kids' spring break, so we ended up going on a road trip of sorts.  We flew to Houston, rented a car, visited the Space Center, checked out Galveston, then drove up to Dallas.  My dayjob is in Dallas and I need to visit the office occasionally.  Truthfully, I need to visit the office more often than I currently do, but given my family situation that is a little tricky.

My kids are very good travel companions, so we decided to drive back to Albuquerque instead of flying.  The way the timing worked out, we had a day to make a detour and drive up to Arkansas to visit John Baker and his Tacom HQ operation.

I've known John for a few years.  He has visited with me about three years ago to talk about his their reticle idea and a few other things  

I think the reticle idea is sound and we should see a version of it in a scope soon enough.  I'll do a thorough coverage at that point.

This time around, the reticle was not the main reason behind my visit.  John is a creative guy and they do several interesting things there.  Everything they do is clever and outside the box.  For example, to the best of my knowledge, they were the first to come up with different ways to shift the POI for ELR shooting with their TARAC devices.  Alpha and Bravo TARAC devices use prisms to shift the zero of the optic, but a predetermined angle.  I have a flip-up Alpha TARAC set up to help with my subsonic ELR pursuits.  Bravo TARAC attaches the prism to the objective of the riflescope which works beter with large objective designs.  Since Tacom came up with it, the idea has been pirated by a couple of people, most prominently by Nightforce.  Technically, Tacom has a patent on it, but this appears to be a situation where a large company (Nightforce) shamelessly muscled a small company (TacomHQ) out of their IP, knowing fully well that they have more money for lawyers.  To be fair, John does not talk about it too much, so this is just a guess on my part (although I am sure I am going to get a nastygram from Nightforce lawyers for posting this.  They seem to really enjoy pushing small independent guys around).

Charlie Tarac uses a periscope instead of a prism to optically add slope for ELR shooting.  Delta Tarac does mostly the same things except it also offsets the line of sight laterally to avoid the mirage from the barrel.

The new thing with TARAC devices for this year seems to be an adjustable version of the Charlie.  There is a large side wheel that allows you to dial up to 900MOA of extra slope.

The reason I wanted to spend a little time with Tacom was the structured barrel.  I first ran into this concept a few years ago and thought it was an interesting idea.

Initially, my plan was to pick an appropriate action and have John make me a 300NM structured barrel for an ELR bolt action rifle.  I still want a 300NM and I might put one together eventually.  However, I never quite pulled the trigger on that for a few reasons.  One is that I simply have very limited use for such a gun.  I still want one, but I do not have easy access to a place wehre I can really stretch the legs of a caliber with that kind of capability.  The reason I wanted to put one together with a structured barrel is that they are are getting very good lifetime out of these and they are very easy to get to shoot properly.  

They have several version of the structured barrel design, but fundamentally they start with a 1.5" diameter barrel blank and mill out a bunch of material.  The most disinctive features are deep longitudinal cylindrical channels drilled parallel to the bore.  The start at the muzzle and go back toward the chamber.  They do not make it all the way to the chamber.  On the outer surface of the barrel, there are additional featuers designed for eliminating vibrational nodes and increasing surface area for better heat exchange.  There is quite a lot of technical informaiton on their website: https://tacomhq.com/structured-barrels/

Structured barrels look very beefy because they start out from large diameter blanks and they are decidedly not light-weight barrels.  However, by the standards of typical match barrels they are on the lighter side of things because of how much material has been removed.  Given their impressive vibration dampening advantages, a few months ago I shifted gears and started leaning toward putting together a large frame AR around Tacom's structured barrel.

With the precisely calculated mechancial structure, these barrels acomplish two very complicated things simultaneously: they are harmonically dead and they do not get hot.

During my visit, we shot two guns with structured barrels: a 6.5CM AR-10 and a 300NM bolt gun.

We did not do mag dumps or anything that silly.  However, after 10 rounds of rather rapidly fired 6.5CM, the barrel was warm, but not hot.  Temperature distribution was arguably the most remarkable part.  Using an infrared thermometer, it was easy to show that the warmest part of the barrel was around the middle (near the gas block on the semi-auto),  The breech end of the barrel was cooler to the touch and measure at a lower temperature.  Basically, the barrel never got very hot and whatever heat it accumulated was shed very rapidly.

The feel of the recoil impulse is really odd in that it is completely muted and there was no muzzle rise to speal off.  I suspect a part of the was the muzzle brake, but this lack of discernible resonant frequencies made the recoil cycle extremely gentle.  I was shooting an IPSC at 350 yards and the recoil impulse never moved the reticle off the plate.  I fired the last four shots as rapidly as I could pull the trigger.  Everything was on the plate.  The rifle was not light at right around 14lbs with the scope, but I expected a lot more movement out of it even with the muzzlebrake.  Most gas guns have this slight "pitchiness" to them and I saw none of that.

The 300NM boltgun was slightly heavier, but with the much more powerful round the recoil did move the reticle off of the target, but not by much. 

I never lost sight of the target during the reocil impulse and the feel was, again, very muted and controllable.  I am not sure how heavy the boltgun was, but definitely less than 20lbs.  I would guess it was around 17lbs, but I'll check with John.

While both guns were very impressive, the semi-auto shot unlike any other gas gun I have ever pulled the trigger on.  No gas gun ever has a truly free floated barrel, since there is a gas block attached to it.  However, the combination of the structured barrel with a unque way that John has of putting the upper together, is the closest I have seen to date.

He bonds the barrel extension to the upper receiver and then screws a shouldered barrel into that.  The upper receiver is the Aero M5E1 Enhanced since the beefy upper receiver extension helps decouple the handguard from the barrel.  Also, the rather beefy structured barrel needs a large diameter handguard which this is.  The gas block they make is a custom affair that is probably better described as "tunable" rather than adjustable.  It is not designed for making frequent adjustments.  The idea is to tune your gas system for perfromance and reliability, then leave it alone.  I plan to do exactly that.

Since I was heading this way, I brought the necessary pieces with me for John to put together a 6.5CM upper for me.   Originally, I was thinking of doing it in 6XC for local PRS matches, but now that I shot with it, I want to try using it for NRL Hunter as well.  I think I can make weight without too much trouble.  I'll stick with 6.5CM in order to make power factor for Hunter matches.

Saying that I was impressed would be a gross understatement.  The feel of this gun is absolutely unique and it has recoil control behavior of a 25lbs gun in a 14lbs package.  It is quite remarkable.  Now, in the grand scheme of things, with my nearly 300lbs bulk backing up the gun, recoil control is a relatively straightforward affair.  Since my kids were there with me, I had both of them shoot both guns and watched the recoil cycle very carefully.  The guns barely moved even with a much smaller human behind them.

I know it sounds like magic, but it isn't.  I am not a mechanical engineer, but I spent a good amounf of time going over the materials and thinking through what they are doing with these barrels.  The science behind it is pretty solid.  I am not seeing any obvious holes in their foundational reasoning.  The execution is difficult and the barrels are not cheap.  Aside from good ideas, it takes a lot of skill and know-how to make these.  There is a good chance I will make a permanent switch to these barrels on what I consider my "heavy" precision guns while sticking with the Fix as lighter guns they way they were originally intended to be.  When I say heavy, I mean sub-20lbs with everything and light is sub-13lbs with everything (scope, suppressor, bipod).

Before I wrap up, let's get back to the heat management argument for a moment.  The 300NM I shot was significantly accurate and it is at a bit over 2800 rounds.  That sounds outlandish given that is nearly triple of I would expect out of this caliber.  However, if the chamber never gets very hot, it is possible.  I really want to know how long the 6.5CM John is building for me will last.  I have high hopes.

 

 

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