DarkLordOfOptics
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Guns, Optics, 2nd Amendment and resisting the Left in everything they touch.
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Adding magnification

Jetlag is a bitch. What does that have to do with magnification? Absolutely nothing. I am in Israel at the moment with work and jetlag joining forces to very thoroughly kick my ass. I have this whole list of prepared topics I want to cover and I find myself sitting and staring at them like an imbecile trying to remember how I planned to address them. Perhaps, I am just having a Biden moment, but I prefer to blame work and jetlag.
Anyway, here is an interesting phenomenon that I only encountered recently: shooters who have no experience with magnification. I do not think it is a very widely spread situation, but it clearly happens since a good number of statements to that effect stood out to me on a few forums and discussion boards recently. Interestingly, a lot of these guys seem to be fairly competent gun guys, they just to be coming into this from a completely different angle that I am used. I am a precision guy at heart and I hunt. Historically, I spend most of my time telling people that out in the real world, very frequently, less is more and you should not overdo magnification. However, there is a ton of people out there, it seems, who come into this from handguns or shotguns or red dot equipped ARs. They have no experience with magnification at all.

Here is a direct quote from a Discord discussion, copied with the permission of the guy who posted it: "I don't have any sort of on-board magnification. I do have some binoculars, but the compact pair seem to be cheap, have poor light transmission, and don't make sense (labels read 20x magnification which is definitely not the case), and the other, more solid pair are bulkier"
Now, to be fair, I have no idea if he has experience with other firearms that do have magnification, but for the sake of the argument let's assume he is a one gun kinda guy. That frequently means that he actually knows how to use it. I'll also make an assumption that he has some sort of a reasonably decent red dot sight already on the gun.
Before we talk about magnification, let's revisit what that magnification is used for:
-increased aiming precision
-improved target identification
-surveillance and observation
The first requires for the magnifying optic to be on the gun.
The latter two can be done with either a weapon mounted optic or a standalone. If it is a weapon mounted optic, you have to be comfortable pointing a gun at thing you may or may not be shooting at. Generally, for the latter two, for civilians like most of us are, I strongly lean toward a standalone optic, for a variety of fairly obvious reasons.
The standalone optic can be either a monocular or a binocular depending on whether you prioritize ease of observation or compactness. If you will be staring through the optic for a long time, a binocular is your best bet. Using two eyes, assuming a decent quality binocular, will usually result in better image quality and lower eye fatigue. However, if you need to take a fairly quick look a monocular might be a more compact option.
The market is not awash in high quality compact monoculars, but most LRFs (Laser RangeFinders) are essentially monoculars with a little extra. I very frequently have my Leica CRF 3500.com with me if I do not think I will spend too much time staring through the optic. It is not cheap, but as far as observation quality goes, it is really a rather nice 7x24 monocular. It also does not hurt to know how far whatever I happen to be looking at really is. It is not cheap, but there are much less expensive LRFs out there. They may not be quite as good optically, but still a lot better than looking around with the naked eye. Leica CRF 3500.com 7x24: https://bit.ly/3aRrmXB
In the lower price ranges, I have had good luck with Vortex Razor and Sig Kilo LRFs, although Athlon's Midas 1 Mile also offers a lot of bang for the buck.
Technically, you can also have a LRF equipped binocular, but most of them are fairly large. The smaller ones Leica's new 32mm Geovids and GPO's 32mm Rangeguide, but I have not tested either. I hear good thing though.
Neither is inexpensive though and if you are looking to stay on a budget, there are several relatively inexpensive binoculars that, to be honest, everyone should have at least one of.
One of things you'll notice as I talk about the binoculars is that they are all of comparatively low magnification. In the original quote above, the gentlemen I quote mentions compact binoculars of 20x magnification, but says that he can's see anything, so he doubts whether they are really 20x. They probably are indeed 20x and that is one of the key reasons he can't see anything useful through them. They are, by definition, also cheap crap of some sort because I am not aware of any reasonable manufacturer who would put their name on a compact 20x binocular. It is not physically possible to make a compact 20x binocular that is good. I could probably come up with a digital one that would sorta work, but even that would not be easy especially due to stabilization concerns. With compact binoculars, you want to keep magnification moderate. It is very hard to handhold a high magnification binocular and light weight makes it even harder. For normal size binoculars, the practical limit for what normal people can handhold is somewhere between 7x and 10x (there are some individual differences). With larger designs and steady hands, you can go up to 12x, but even with full size binoculars at moderate magnifications you will see better off of a tripod. With compact binoculars, I strongly recommend keeping the exit pupil at 4mm or more if possible (exit pupil is objective diameter divided by magnification), which means keeping magnification low. We live in a world where a lot more people buy binoculars than use them, so low power options that do not look very sexy on paper do not sell very well. That is unfortunate because they are very easy to use without taking up too much space. If I am out on a hike or simply want to keep my pack weight down, I usually have a 6x to 7x binocular with me. Historically, it has been a first gen Vortex Viper 6x32. That has been long discontinued and I have added a few more low power options to my collection since that are actually available for purchase. I wish they were available with a ranging reticle of some sort, but unfortunately that is not in the cards. The cheapest option is the Kowa YF porro prism design. It is not the small owing to the porro configuration, but it is lightweight, inexpensive and surprisingly good for the money. Kowa YF 6x30: https://bit.ly/3B0dQeL If you are an infrequent user and you really do not want to spend much money, just get this one. It is not going to get lower than $100. With nice stereoscopic effect and a 5mm exit pupil, it is easily my pick for a budget option.
If you want something with a little less footprint, but good image quality and without sacrificing exit pupil, sticking with Kowa, but stepping up to the 6.5x32 BDII is your best bet: https://bit.ly/3tuBDyT I have been torturing this binocular for a little while now and it has become one of my favourites. It has maintained collimation despite some rather rough treatment and image quality punches well above its weight class.
Lastly, the binocular that lives in my truck is another porro design and this one is from Steiner. The 7x32 Navigator is the individual focus design which, essentially, just means that each barrel is focused individually for your eyes. In practical terms, you just get these focused for some reasonably distant target and never touch the focus adjustments again. It will work just fine from 50 yards or so out to infinity. To inspect something closer, you have to mess with the focus adjustments again, which I dislike doing. That's the disadvantage. The advantage is that there is a lot of depth of field and if I just need to grab a binocular to examine something fairly distant, I do not need to worry about focusing. It is a nice pleasing view with excellent 3D effect due to wider objective separation endemic to porro designs: https://bit.ly/3OcprKQ

Now, let's switch gears a bit and talk about adding weapon-mounted magnification. There are a couple of ways to do it, depending on whether you are looking to augment what you have or replace it. Given my baseline assumption that we are dealing with a competent shooter, it is probably best to not rock the boat. That means adding a magnifier to a red dot sight that is already on there. In principle, we could consider switching to an LPVO or a prismatic and setting up the red dot as an offset or piggybacked sight. However, that requires re-training which is nice to avoid in this case. Also, keep in mind that not all red dot sights play well with magnifiers. Let's assume what he's got there is something perfectly normal and reliable like an Aimpoint Micro or some other good quality enclosed reflex sight.
In principle, one of the better solution for this situation was proposed a long time ago by Aimpoint with their twist mount. Most modern magnifiers are mounted in flip-to-side mounts where, if you want an unadulterated view of the red dot, you just flip the magnifier to the side. It remains attached to the rifle, but you are not looking through it. There are a few different variations on this them out there, like Unity Tactical's FAST mount, but it is all the same basic idea. Aimpoint does offer a flip-to side mount, but they also have a less popular twist mount. With the twist mount, you can quickly remove the magnifier from the gun to use it as a handheld monocular. It has the advantage of being able to look at things without pointing your gun at them and of removing some weight from the gun when you do not need magnification. The downside, of course, is that you have an extra piece to store and that most magnifiers do not have a ton of magnification. Aimpoint's mount is set up for any magnifier that is built in a 30mm tube and all the good quality modern magnifiers are not. I use Aimpoint's 6x magnifier in this fashion, but it is a really expensive option: https://bit.ly/3OkUNyZ
In principle, any modern magnifier that sits in a QD mount can be used like this. Removing it from a rifle and holding it in your hand is a little more cumbersome, but it works. Good options for that are Sig's Juliet4 https://bit.ly/2NKcuhL and Vortex Micro 6x https://bit.ly/3B3CUSs

If you are not looking for something to be used both on the gun and handheld, i.e. add a magnifier in a flip mount and leave it on the rifle, I'd likely sacrifice some magnification to get the smallest available option which, for the time being, is probably Primary Arms' SLx Micro 3x with PEgasus ranging reticle: https://bit.ly/3DnfGFR

What do I personally do? or where would I start? Honestly, I would make sure I have some sort of a standalone monocular or binocular and, since everyone should have a laser rangefinder, I would probably start there.

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Area 419 Hellfire Ti Brake

I was looking over my past reviews and realized that I havn't really done a video on the Hellfire Ti brake from Area 419.

In the grand scheme of things, I am not big on brakes. However, you do not always get what you want and I do have two firearms equipped with brakes.

One is an Encore muzzleloader that launches a 275gr bullet at 2400fps out of a 9lbs gun. It is unpleasant without a brake.

Another is the Stag Pursuit in 6.5PRC that you see in the attached video. I put it together as my "restricted state" gun and I chose a brake where I though I would get the best muzzle flip control at the lowest weight rather than the most muzzle control at more weight than half of my suppressors.

https://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/area-419-hellfire-ti-self-timing-brake/?ref=fl0iza41
Hellfire Ti is still loud, but not as obnoxious as dedicated competition brakes. It does control muzzle rise exceedingly well despite compact size and sub 3 ounce weight.

00:08:24
Aftermarket ND magazines for Tikka T1x

Tikka T1x is wonderful.
They are stupid accurate right out of the factory for not a lot of money.
The magazine it comes with is adequate, but not ideal.
I tried to get a +5 extension for it, but that disintegrated on the second stage of a rimfire side match we had in Raton.
A gentleman who was shooting right after me with his daughter was running two T1X rifles flawlessly using a metal magazine of some sort.
It turned out there is a Canadian company called ND Supply that makes metal 10rd and 15rd magazines for T1x.
It is not cheap at $70, but I got one and it has been flawless.

https://ndrshootingsupplies.com/15-round-magazine-tikka-t1x-22-lr/

00:05:17
PA PLxC 1.5-12x36 First Look at the scope and the Griffin Mil G2 reticle

Here are some initial thoughts on the scope and the reticle.
Overall, I like what I see.
I am not crazy about some features of the reticle, like the ranging bars and the aiming chevron, but in this implementation, they do not get in the way much.
The chevron is not my preferred aiming point, but in a scope of this size it works fine.
https://alnk.to/cb65zpi

At first blush, there might be a couple of things I'd do differently with this scope, but a lot of that is really just personal preference.

As is, the way this scope is conceptualized, is very true to the MPVO idea.

00:10:19
Random thoughts on Vortex Talon 10K LRF binocular and on tripod shooting

Normally, this is something I'd be doing as a livestream, but I have, temporarily, lost my studio.

The way our living arrangements have been last couple of years, we have two houses literally next to each other. My family is in one and my parents were in the other. My office and studio were set up in the house where my parents were. Early this year, we had to move them in an assisted living facility since their health declined to a point where it was no longer viable to have them live in that house.

Since I can't afford to carry two mortgages indefinitely, we decided to set it up as a short term rental via AirBNB or some similar service. In the immediate term, it turned out that a friend of a friend needed a place to stay for a few months due to some family turmoil. She is now living there and I had to take apart my office and clean out the rest of the house. I will set up an area for my livestreams soon enough, but not for a week or two.

Until then, written word it is.

Vortex Talon 10k 12x50 binoculars showed up...

Texas Hog Hunt suggestions

Gentlemen, do you have any recommendations on a good outfitter in Texas to go shoot a hog or two with?
I am thinking of taking my son in the second half of June to shoot a hog on his birthday. Besides, I have a couple of thermals to test.
Normally, I'd be shooting BOTC in Wyoming, but they moved it to coincide with my wife's birthday, so that's a no go.
I am looking at the last week of June for this.
Historically, I would always go visit a friend of mine at his lease and hunt hogs there, but apparently the property owner started having some issues with too many guests, so that avenue is closed.
A quick internet search uncovered a significant number of outfitters offering these services, so I am looking for recommendation based on personal experience.
Naturally, if you would like to join us for this hunt, you are certainly welcome to do so.

A little bit on Dugin and on Space

I will have something related to guns and optics up shortly, but in the meantime, here is a link to my slightly bipolar Substack article that, unusually, ends on a positive note:
https://darklordofoptics.substack.com/p/a-little-optimism-can-go-a-long-way

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Visiting with TacomHQ

This week was my kids' spring break, so we ended up going on a road trip of sorts.  We flew to Houston, rented a car, visited the Space Center, checked out Galveston, then drove up to Dallas.  My dayjob is in Dallas and I need to visit the office occasionally.  Truthfully, I need to visit the office more often than I currently do, but given my family situation that is a little tricky.

My kids are very good travel companions, so we decided to drive back to Albuquerque instead of flying.  The way the timing worked out, we had a day to make a detour and drive up to Arkansas to visit John Baker and his Tacom HQ operation.

I've known John for a few years.  He has visited with me about three years ago to talk about his their reticle idea and a few other things  

I think the reticle idea is sound and we should see a version of it in a scope soon enough.  I'll do a thorough coverage at that point.

This time around, the reticle was not the main reason behind my visit.  John is a creative guy and they do several interesting things there.  Everything they do is clever and outside the box.  For example, to the best of my knowledge, they were the first to come up with different ways to shift the POI for ELR shooting with their TARAC devices.  Alpha and Bravo TARAC devices use prisms to shift the zero of the optic, but a predetermined angle.  I have a flip-up Alpha TARAC set up to help with my subsonic ELR pursuits.  Bravo TARAC attaches the prism to the objective of the riflescope which works beter with large objective designs.  Since Tacom came up with it, the idea has been pirated by a couple of people, most prominently by Nightforce.  Technically, Tacom has a patent on it, but this appears to be a situation where a large company (Nightforce) shamelessly muscled a small company (TacomHQ) out of their IP, knowing fully well that they have more money for lawyers.  To be fair, John does not talk about it too much, so this is just a guess on my part (although I am sure I am going to get a nastygram from Nightforce lawyers for posting this.  They seem to really enjoy pushing small independent guys around).

Charlie Tarac uses a periscope instead of a prism to optically add slope for ELR shooting.  Delta Tarac does mostly the same things except it also offsets the line of sight laterally to avoid the mirage from the barrel.

The new thing with TARAC devices for this year seems to be an adjustable version of the Charlie.  There is a large side wheel that allows you to dial up to 900MOA of extra slope.

The reason I wanted to spend a little time with Tacom was the structured barrel.  I first ran into this concept a few years ago and thought it was an interesting idea.

Initially, my plan was to pick an appropriate action and have John make me a 300NM structured barrel for an ELR bolt action rifle.  I still want a 300NM and I might put one together eventually.  However, I never quite pulled the trigger on that for a few reasons.  One is that I simply have very limited use for such a gun.  I still want one, but I do not have easy access to a place wehre I can really stretch the legs of a caliber with that kind of capability.  The reason I wanted to put one together with a structured barrel is that they are are getting very good lifetime out of these and they are very easy to get to shoot properly.  

They have several version of the structured barrel design, but fundamentally they start with a 1.5" diameter barrel blank and mill out a bunch of material.  The most disinctive features are deep longitudinal cylindrical channels drilled parallel to the bore.  The start at the muzzle and go back toward the chamber.  They do not make it all the way to the chamber.  On the outer surface of the barrel, there are additional featuers designed for eliminating vibrational nodes and increasing surface area for better heat exchange.  There is quite a lot of technical informaiton on their website: https://tacomhq.com/structured-barrels/

Structured barrels look very beefy because they start out from large diameter blanks and they are decidedly not light-weight barrels.  However, by the standards of typical match barrels they are on the lighter side of things because of how much material has been removed.  Given their impressive vibration dampening advantages, a few months ago I shifted gears and started leaning toward putting together a large frame AR around Tacom's structured barrel.

With the precisely calculated mechancial structure, these barrels acomplish two very complicated things simultaneously: they are harmonically dead and they do not get hot.

During my visit, we shot two guns with structured barrels: a 6.5CM AR-10 and a 300NM bolt gun.

We did not do mag dumps or anything that silly.  However, after 10 rounds of rather rapidly fired 6.5CM, the barrel was warm, but not hot.  Temperature distribution was arguably the most remarkable part.  Using an infrared thermometer, it was easy to show that the warmest part of the barrel was around the middle (near the gas block on the semi-auto),  The breech end of the barrel was cooler to the touch and measure at a lower temperature.  Basically, the barrel never got very hot and whatever heat it accumulated was shed very rapidly.

The feel of the recoil impulse is really odd in that it is completely muted and there was no muzzle rise to speal off.  I suspect a part of the was the muzzle brake, but this lack of discernible resonant frequencies made the recoil cycle extremely gentle.  I was shooting an IPSC at 350 yards and the recoil impulse never moved the reticle off the plate.  I fired the last four shots as rapidly as I could pull the trigger.  Everything was on the plate.  The rifle was not light at right around 14lbs with the scope, but I expected a lot more movement out of it even with the muzzlebrake.  Most gas guns have this slight "pitchiness" to them and I saw none of that.

The 300NM boltgun was slightly heavier, but with the much more powerful round the recoil did move the reticle off of the target, but not by much. 

I never lost sight of the target during the reocil impulse and the feel was, again, very muted and controllable.  I am not sure how heavy the boltgun was, but definitely less than 20lbs.  I would guess it was around 17lbs, but I'll check with John.

While both guns were very impressive, the semi-auto shot unlike any other gas gun I have ever pulled the trigger on.  No gas gun ever has a truly free floated barrel, since there is a gas block attached to it.  However, the combination of the structured barrel with a unque way that John has of putting the upper together, is the closest I have seen to date.

He bonds the barrel extension to the upper receiver and then screws a shouldered barrel into that.  The upper receiver is the Aero M5E1 Enhanced since the beefy upper receiver extension helps decouple the handguard from the barrel.  Also, the rather beefy structured barrel needs a large diameter handguard which this is.  The gas block they make is a custom affair that is probably better described as "tunable" rather than adjustable.  It is not designed for making frequent adjustments.  The idea is to tune your gas system for perfromance and reliability, then leave it alone.  I plan to do exactly that.

Since I was heading this way, I brought the necessary pieces with me for John to put together a 6.5CM upper for me.   Originally, I was thinking of doing it in 6XC for local PRS matches, but now that I shot with it, I want to try using it for NRL Hunter as well.  I think I can make weight without too much trouble.  I'll stick with 6.5CM in order to make power factor for Hunter matches.

Saying that I was impressed would be a gross understatement.  The feel of this gun is absolutely unique and it has recoil control behavior of a 25lbs gun in a 14lbs package.  It is quite remarkable.  Now, in the grand scheme of things, with my nearly 300lbs bulk backing up the gun, recoil control is a relatively straightforward affair.  Since my kids were there with me, I had both of them shoot both guns and watched the recoil cycle very carefully.  The guns barely moved even with a much smaller human behind them.

I know it sounds like magic, but it isn't.  I am not a mechanical engineer, but I spent a good amounf of time going over the materials and thinking through what they are doing with these barrels.  The science behind it is pretty solid.  I am not seeing any obvious holes in their foundational reasoning.  The execution is difficult and the barrels are not cheap.  Aside from good ideas, it takes a lot of skill and know-how to make these.  There is a good chance I will make a permanent switch to these barrels on what I consider my "heavy" precision guns while sticking with the Fix as lighter guns they way they were originally intended to be.  When I say heavy, I mean sub-20lbs with everything and light is sub-13lbs with everything (scope, suppressor, bipod).

Before I wrap up, let's get back to the heat management argument for a moment.  The 300NM I shot was significantly accurate and it is at a bit over 2800 rounds.  That sounds outlandish given that is nearly triple of I would expect out of this caliber.  However, if the chamber never gets very hot, it is possible.  I really want to know how long the 6.5CM John is building for me will last.  I have high hopes.

 

 

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Here is an interesting question I got after the last livestream
I do read all comments

I got an interesting question via Youtube after the last livestream.  Here is it is verbatim:

"Ilya I hope you read the comments. I’ve got an optics question that I can’t seem to find an answer to. 
In reference to competition style scopes. Ones that seem geared towards PRS or other similar styles of shooting. Is there some good reason that the manufacturers constantly put out stuff with a low end mag that is basically unusable? Weight? Clarity? Something else?
I’m thinking of things like the K540i, Vortex 6-36, Tangent, Zco. I’ve never seen anyone shoot these scopes below 10x and most of their reticles are completely unreadable at low magnification. Why not start the low end at something like 10x or 12x and use a similar or lower zoom ratio? A 10-30 seems much more useful in PRS compared to a 5-25 since it’s my understanding that a lower zoom ratio is easier to make."

The biggest reason is simply marketing.  People who actually compete are a relatively small minority.  They do not really need low magnification.  Most people who spend money on scopes are looking at specs and a large magnification ratio is more marketable.  There are of course other practical reasons too.

When you design a riflescope, you are generally trying to hit multiple birds with one stone.

For example, if you want it to appeal to some potential military contracts, you need some sort of a viable low magnification to use with clip-ons.  Many of the clip-ons available to the military work pretty well on higher magnifications, but they generally want to have low pwoer in the 4x to 7x range.

As far as the reticle not being usable on low power, that is a consequence of making reticle very thin for use on high power.  This is also where military applications and civilian competition applications have different needs.  More military oriented reticles tend to be slightly thicker and I often prefer those.  

However, the simple truth is that reticle illumination pretty much solves that problem nicely since most low power use is in low or fading light.

The extended range features of a reticle (christmas tree, etc) seldom come into play in low light, so if the reticle simply has something like an illuminated cross, it works very well.

For what it is worth, even in daylight, I shoot my Tangents below 10x all the time, though not much belwo 10x.  In NRL Hunter matches, for example, since I am pretty new at this and have a hard time finding the plate, I figured out during my very first match that keeping my 7-35x Tangent on 9x, really helps me get behind the rifle quickly and get it stable quickly.  As I got a little better at getting into a proper shooting position efficiently, I bumped it up to about 12x.  When practicing, I routinely keep magnification low when shooting off of props.  When I am not pressed for time and shoot a bit further out, I'll bump up the magnification a little to have a better look at the mirage.  However, I virtually never shoot above 20x unless I am screwing around with some very small targets at close ranges (like the 1/4" hanger on the KYL rack) which is mostly done with rimfires and airguns.

Moving on.... a few years ago when I was chatting with a guy who designs riflescopes for a living, I asked him that the ideal magnification ratio is, where you have a good enough magnification range without any really significant optical compromises.  He said that it is right around 5x, i.e. 5-25x, 7-35x, etc.  When riflescope optical systems are designed, they are not all ground up designs.  For example, you can take a well worked out erector system and use it in a range of scopes.  LPVOs are a little different, but you can use more or less the same erector and eyepiece for several different designs: 2-12x, 3-18x, 4-24x, 5-30x can have very significant part commonality.  Noone is itching to design a standalone 3x erector just for the highest magnification scope because it just adds extra cost and might not offer any advantages beyond potentially slightly lighter scope and somewhat easier assembly/alignment.  

The idea of a competition dedicated high power riflescope that is 10-30x or something along those lines comes up every few years as does the concept of a dedicated 14x fully optimized for matches.  Every time, it fails the basic test of economics: how much will it cost to develop vs how many you might sell.

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Zenith Rifle by Alpine Riflecraft
First Look at The Ultimate Mountain Rifle

As many of you are likely aware, I am heading out to Montana for a mule deer hunt in a few days.  I will also have an additional cow elk tag, since I did not draw anythign in New Mexico.

My original plan was to borrow one of the MegaFix prototypes from Q.  However, all three properly fucntioning prototypes of the MEgaFix they have are in Africa taking down a broad range of animals.  The way I go hunting usually involves two rifles.  One primary, which is typcially something I am doing an article on and one backup which is something I know works in case I need it in a pinch.

My backup rifle is the OG Fix chambered for 308Win.  You have seen this gun many times over the years.  It was the subject of a dedicated video.  

I hunt with it and occasionally shoot NRL Hunter matches with it (shot two this year).  

As configured, it clocks in at a bit under 11lbs with the scope, https://alnk.to/af179CG, bipod, full length Arca rail from Sawtooth and LSP vertical grip.  I could make it a little lighter, but after some consideration, I decided to keep it in this configuration.  Eventually, I will upgrade it to Area 419 rings (I have been slowly switching to them almost across the board), but beyond that I plan to do absolutely nothing with it until I finally shoot the barrel out.  Ammo is a different ballgame and I am about to embark on an experiment with NAS3 cases, but that's a story for another day.

I still wanted somethign new to test, so I reched out to my Guns & Ammo editor to see if he has any ideas.  He usually does and this case was not the exception.  He connected me with a gentleman who owns a Canadian company called Alpine Riflecraft.  They are on a mission to make the world's best mountain hunting rifle and the Zenith is the product of their efforts.

I have now spent a couple of days at the range with it and have some early impressions to share.

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