DarkLordOfOptics
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Guns, Optics, 2nd Amendment and resisting the Left in everything they touch.
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Starting From Scratch... on a budget

The way it usually works with me, when I start postulating various nightmarish scenarios like "the government went nut and all your guns were lost in a tragic boating accident, but then you fell out of a bear stand and hit your head, so you can't remember which lake it was and have to start over", I always start with the high end options. My high end options tend to be boringly repetitive because it is some sort of a Q gun or two with a Tangent Theta or two. There is a reason to my madness because Q, rather than set out to hyperspecialize on something, went the opposite direction with quite a few of their guns. They are a high end take on a general purpose gun. That applies to The Fix, The Boombox and the Sugar Weasel. Honey Badger is a somewhat more specialized thing as are some of the very short Fix variants. Still, Q has a very distinct design philosophy which appeals to my paranoias.
https://eurooptic.sjv.io/jRaBkP

Unfortunately, nothing in Q's product line qualifies as "on a budget". Most of my favourite gunmakers, now that I think about it, do not qualify as "on a budget". I wonder why... probably just a coincidence.
It is not just Q or TacomHQ.
Same for FoldAR, for example. https://alnk.to/5ukq232
While I prefer to build ARs myself from pieces. HoneyBadger and FoldAR are the only real exceptions to that.

Still, a few of my favourite gunmakers do fit real world budgets, so I have enough there to work with. I will lay all this out first and then tell you what I would do personally, if this actually happened.

The reason I do this thought exercise once a year is to see if my preferences shifted and if any new products that came out recently snuck their way onto my list. It is sort of a yearly sanity check that forces me to think the same basic problem through on a yearly basis.

What sort of an armory are we looking at if starting from scratch?

Well, you need a handgun to carry and to practice with. Tiny handguns are great for carry and miserable to practice with, so we are looking for something relatively compact, but not tiny.

A semi-auto centerfire of some sort, chambered for an easily available/ cartridge (i.e. 5.56x45) is next on the list in case we have another Katrina level event that requires you to go feral for a 2 to 4 weeks. Or it could just be for plinking without going broke.

A bolt action rifle to use for hunting. Ideally something relatively light if you are going to be hiking uphill with it.

A rimfire of some sort in case you are attacked by a horde of angry zombie squirrels and need something that takes 22LR ammo. I assume you all have reasonable stockpiles (six digit round counts are not out of the question) of 22LR ammo just for such a purpose.

I want the rimfire suppressed. I also want the centerfires suppressed, but they can share a suppressor.

I am not going to go into match shooting options too much in this scenario though, since that's a topic all its own. It is surprisingly doable on a budget these days though.

Same for shotguns. While I like shotguns and own a few, to me they are very optional, unless you are a collector or a bird hunter. I know there is a whole ethos out there of a shotgun being the perfect home defense weapon. I disagree with that.

Lastly, I am going to ignore restricted states. That's a separate conversation too.

Sidearm:
-A general purpose handgun that can be carried and used to take a class once in a while. Overall, Glock 48 MOS is it https://alnk.to/cHRufCg Yes, P365 has a better trigger, but it is ~$200 more for a similar configuration. I will say though that if you can live with a slightly beefier gun, I am extremely impressed with Ruger RXM https://alnk.to/fSl7Ule It is less expensive and easy to reconfigure in the future. Stock RXM is a Glock 19 sized gun that uses Glock mags and other accessories.
Eventually, you will want to put an optic on that gun. Having spent quite a lot of time cleaning dirt, grime, dry skin, sweat and other nasty things off of the lens of the optic on my carry handgun, I developed a strong preference toward enclosed red dots for carry. They tend to be slightly more expensive, but I think it is worth it. For a budget option, I'd just go with Vortex Defender CCW Enclosed https://eurooptic.sjv.io/jRa35a Gideon Valor Mini is another good optic, but the solar panel in the Vortex gives me a touch more piece of mind. I have seen batteries fail all out of the blue and a dual power source optic is a good idea.

TACTICAL
-With ARs, all my usual preferred options like Q's Sugar Weasel or Fold AR's Watchman are $2k+. Personally, I would buy pieces and build one, but that's me. If we are looking for a ready made option on a budget. That means: free floating M-lok handguard, some sort of a reasonable collapsible stock and a grip made for human hands that you do not have to replace immediately (i.e. not GI), 16" barrel, so that you do not have to deal with NFA nonsense, an some sort of a replaceable muzzle device.
The good part is there is a ton of these. The bad part is that there is a ton of these and it is hard to figure out if there are any real differences between them. Most of them work quite nicely despite being on a budget and you can almost always find multiple turnkey options in the $500 range. This time I am going to go with ZRO Delta since I know the company and since their $500-ish AR is cerakoted into FDE, has improved furniture and an ambidextrous safety. I prefer full length pic rails, but in this case that's not a requirement https://alnk.to/cwWJhri
With optics, it sorta comes down to what is most important to you. Since this is a general purpose setup (in my mind) a budget LPVO with a bright fiber dot is the way to go https://alnk.to/9mt5CSs
The market is not awash with decent budget scope mounts. PA's SLx is serviceable enough for this https://alnk.to/614GZpB
If your intentions lean more toward the CQB side of thing, PA's microprism with nuclear bright T-dot reticle is the way https://alnk.to/4qPSag0

An AR intended for defensive purposes should have a light on it. I have been looking at that rather carefully lately. All the nice stuff (Modlite, Surefire, Arisaka, etc is kinda expensive. Something like Streamlight Pro-TAC and Inforce WMLx will work well enough, so I would lean toward Inforce WMLx because I like its ergonomics without having to deal with cables and remotes https://alnk.to/7X91OJd It is not quite as nice as the Arisaka light I have in terms of beam profile, but I am not complaining either.

HUNTING
-For a hunting rifle, to the surprise of exactly noone, I am going to go slightly less budget and suggest a Tikka again. These are the most consistently accurate mass produced rifles I have seen to date. They also have very good lightweight versions and a T3x Superlite with a 20" barrel is just the ticket here: https://eurooptic.sjv.io/VOdeDM I like the texture of the Roughtech stocks and the looks of a fluted barrel. If you are looking to save some money, you can get T3X Lite for about $400 less https://eurooptic.sjv.io/xJo3DR
Yes, there is a myriad of options in the $400 range from Mossberg, Savage, etc. They all sorta work, although they tend to be a little rough around the edges. I would pay a touch more and get a Tikka.
Either 6.5CM or 308Win would work fine. I lean toward 6.5CM personally with +Peak ammo looming.
With optics, it is arguably even harder to choose given the absolutely psychotic number of options. However, since for this hunting rifle it would be nice to keep things relatively light, things get narrowed down a bit. Most sane people would get a conventional SFP scope and be done. On the budget end of things, I think Burris Fullfield 3-12x56 with illuminated #4 reticle is it https://alnk.to/6bZrZ01 If you care about weight and can live with a compact scope, I would pick up Trijicon Accupoint 3-9x40 and be done https://alnk.to/g3fSUAi
However, since I live out West and distances here can get non-trivial (and since I picked a rifle that can tackle those non-trivial distances), I would like a lightweight FFP scope with a zerostop turret in the 3-15x or thereabouts range.
If you speak MOA, get Burris Veracity PH 2.5-12x42 https://alnk.to/e7by7GA
If you speak mrad, I think Athlon Helos BTR Gen2 might be the best budget option out there https://eurooptic.sjv.io/vDm3rO
If you are willing to open up your pocket a bit more, Vortex Razor HD-LHT 4.5-22x50 is still the lightweight king of the crossover world https://eurooptic.sjv.io/X4YM94

RIMFIRE
Finally, let's talk rimfire. For general plinking, practice and zombie squirrel combat, noone has yet come up with anything better than a Ruger Takedown 10/22 in X22 stock that can live in the back of your truck in a nicely clandestine pack of some sort in order to always be available.
https://alnk.to/5ukq47S
I have just such a beast, albeit with an upgraded barrel, but stock barrel is fine too. There are other options out there that are less expensive with the Ruger. I've shot them here and there, but I think here is an advantage in staying with the 10/22 ecosystem.
Optics for an ultralite, yet decently accurate 22LR happen to be a slightly overlooked segment of the optics market and I approach it differently from most. My 10/22 has Element 5x30 prismatic on it set up in conventional rings. https://eurooptic.sjv.io/7XKrrr
It is very good optically, compact (which shifts the weight back for easy shooting offhand) and has sidefocus, so that I can plink at very small things not too far away. Naturally, I am partial to the reticle. Now, it is not cheap, but the problem with cheap rimfire scopes is that most are not very good and lack side focus. Even a basic 10/22 will let you practice out to a couple of hundred yards if you are so inclined.
If you do prefer a conventional variable power optic for this, SWFA 2.5-10x32 Ultralight is surprisingly good https://swfa.com/products/swfa-2-5-10x32-ss-ultralight-rimfire-plex-reticle-1-tube-25-moa-clicks-50-yard-parallax

At this stage, we are about $4500 in with a pretty decent arsenal that can do a lot of different things.

That does not include suppressors and those are really up to you. I do not have the means to try them all, so I can only recommend what I have tried. I tend to use Q suppressors, to a significant degree because I like their tone and mounting method. If you stick with 6.5mm or smaller calibers, you can take one Jumbo Shrimp suppressor and move it around. However, if you plan to have one suppressor to move around and you are not yet sure what you caliber options would be, one 30cal suppressor in a quick mount of some sort is the way to go. Q makes the Trash Panda for that which is a very nice titanium can. More recently, they made a similarly sized Blind Target which is steel and costs a couple of hundred dollars less. I'd be inclined to just do that https://alnk.to/4XA98Fg

For a rimfire suppressor, there is a ton of options out there that are all similar to each other. I am partial to Q El Camino as a general purpose rimfire can https://alnk.to/faG620Z

The way the market is going, if NFA does fall (which seems relatively likely) in the next two years, we will see decent rimfire suppressors For $100 - $150 all over the place.

I think that roughly covers it. At current prices, I can rebuild the fundamentals of my armory for about $6k including the suppressors.

That's a good chunk of money, but it is still about half of what my match rifle costs altogether.

Now, if, heaven forbid, I was facing this same horrible scenario... I would probably learn to scuba dive and go looking for the right lake.

Alternatively, if starting from scratch, I would get:
-Sig P365 XMacro TACOPS build which includes threaded barrel, Sig red dot and a couple of 21rd magazine for ~$1200
-Q Boombox in 8.6Blackout with a 16" barrel. https://eurooptic.sjv.io/5kzQoN That scratches my hunting itch out to 500 yards or so, while also doubling up nicely as a defensive firearm when equipped with subsonics. For an optic, I am sticking with PA's PLxC 1.5-12x36 https://alnk.to/7ftZTDE For a suppressor, Q's SHort Chop This would run about $7500
-To scratch the precision itch, I'd be picking up Tikka T1x rimfire and mounting Telson TM 5-25x56 on it. https://telsonoptics.com/shop/target-master-5-25x56-ir-ffp/?ref=llkqsdus That's about $1500

I have two out of these three firearms on hand and P365 will be here eventually too.

That's a lot more money for fewer firearms, but this would match my personal idiosyncrasies exceedingly well.

That's one of the reasons why details matter. What is the best option for me, might not be the best option for you if our preferences diverge.

When putting together a somewhat general recommendation like I did above, I make selections based on typical use and typical albeit relatively well trained users.

For most of us here who take these matters seriously, a general recommendations list is not the end of the discussion.

It is the start of it.

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Are bipods obsolete? Strong Hand by Dialed Designs

Bipods are not obsolete, but I kinda have to admit that ever since tripods and gamechanger shooting bags came about, I have been using bipods increasingly less.
I did use my triple pull in its fully extended configuration during last match on one stage (you had to use a shaky stick as a support, so I used it as a rear support kneeling) and actually hit a target 500-ish yards away, but in retrospect, I could have used the tripod instead just as well.
Since I spent most of this year unable to shoot prone without pain, I shot off of the tripod as much as possible. I got a lot better at that, but it is still a single point of support. How well I can shoot with the rifle clipped into the tripod (or off a bag sitting on top of a tripod table) seems to have a pretty strong dependence on the weight of the rifle. It is markedly easier with a 16lbs rifle than with a 12lbs one. It is a LOT easier with a 20lbs gun (assuming all three are shooting the same 6.5CM cartridge). I did connect on a plate 1446yards ...

00:02:34
Vortex Veil 400 Thermal Monocular

After a lengthier silence than I anticipated, here is the first of several reviews on thermal optics that I plan to release.

While my normal predilection is to decidedly lean toward the very high end of what's available, with this one I decided to look at something relatively affordable. I was shocked how much I liked it.

It has respectable image quality overall, very convenient form factor and the best thought out controls I have seen on any thermal monocular to date.

Most places have it for around $1500. Opticsplanet has it listed at $1269, but out of stock. https://alnk.to/hszMNe8

Midway has it in stock and their 1776VTX26 coupon code seems to work on the Veil400 for now. That brings the price down to $1234 https://alnk.to/faFW2Ff
That's likely the best deal going right now.

Veil400 comes with a decent carry case, but I have to admit it spent most of its time with me either in my cargo pocket or clipped to the binocular harness.

Veil400, despite being an inexpensive by ...

00:19:27
Nuclear Bright FFP LPVOs

This is a re-upload, so if you receive two notifications, my apologies.
The original upload got stuck on processing the video.

This originally started as a review of the Vortex AMG 1-10x24, but ended up being more of a direct comparison of what you get with these three modern LPVOs that have nuclear bright reticle illumination:

Vortex AMG 1-10x24 https://eurooptic.sjv.io/rEQm1y
Primary Arms PLxC 1-8x24 https://alnk.to/9xnqt1y
Vortex Razor Gen3 1-10x24 https://eurooptic.sjv.io/rEQm1y black anodize or https://alnk.to/4XzIXQ9 for bronze anodize

The first question will always be why I selected these specific three scopes. The obvious answer is simply because I had them. I was really hoping to get the new SAI10 here since it goes head to head against these group, but that was delayed. I will do an update when it gets here.

Why did I not include the two Nightforce options: NX8 and ATACR? Several reasons. Mostly because they have been around for a while and are a known quantity. I have looked at both...

00:28:27
Following up on the Safran LRF

After posting a link to it, I gave it some thought and decided I may have an application for this thing, so I ordered it. I pulled it out of the box, looked at it carefully, and sent it back without ever mounting it on a gun.
https://darklordofoptics.locals.com/post/8088825/quick-heads-up-on-what-looks-like-one-hell-of-a-deal
It is an abject lesson that I need to look more carefully at specs and pictures.
It looks to be a very well made device. The screen is decently visible even for my aging eyes. It is light. It is, however, not compact.
The attached picture shows it next to the Vortex Impact 4000. While it is several ounces lighter than the Vortex and it offers additional capability (lasers and illuminator), it is not smaller and the gun I was planning to put this on has a real estate issue.
I also missed where the control buttons are located.
Mode selector is on the back and that's pretty convenient.
The screen is small, but readable.
The two large rubberized buttons that you use to...

Reviewing The Recommendations and If I could Have only One.

As we get toward the end of the summer, I start thinking about editing my various price-categorized recommendations. I keep them on my legacy website because that one is hierarchical in how it is setup.

This Locals page is very convenient for me in many ways, but it does make it difficult to keep something always on the front page. That's why you see a link (on your right) for Riflescope Recommendations that takes you to my old website.

In many ways, picking just the right option, in the modern very saturated market, is increasingly tricky, because it is hard for scopes to differentiate themselves. There are differences between comparable models from reputable brands, of course, but they are often not huge.

Reliability/durability, for example, is not really a differentiator any more in the mid-to-high price range. Aside from an occasional turd that every manufacturer puts out once in a while, there isn't a statistical difference I am aware of in terms of how these hold up.

That is why I had to start approaching some of my ...

Structured Barrel and Grips

My structured barrel project is now officially a go.
The upper from TacomHQ is here and I am tinkering with the gas system to make sure everything works.
It ran fine on their lower, but now it needs to run on mine, which is a little different, and I added a suppressor to boot.
The configuration as in the attached picture is a little heavier than I need. Since I want to use it in NRL Hunter matches, I need the whole thing to weight 16lbs or less. As pictured, it is 16.6lbs.
My original hope was to use the exceptional FFP Meta scope from S&B
https://eurooptic.sjv.io/oNJ5Xe
on this gun in Area 419 Hunt rings
https://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/area-419-scope-rings-hunt/?ref=fl0iza41, but that's a no go with the weight limitations, unless I pull off the suppressor and set it up with the ultralight titanium muzzle brake I have from Area 419.
https://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/area-419-hellfire-ti-self-timing-brake/?ref=fl0iza41

I might still end up doing it that way, but hopefully not.

I somehow needed to claw enough weight ...

Spartan's CP Brace: Initial Impressions
In pursuit of stability

It has been a little time since I talked about Spartan Precision bipods and tripods.  That is largely due to my preoccupation with precision shooting during the last year and a half or so. 

I have two pieces of gear from Spartan: Ascent tripod https://alnk.to/28VEg3S and Javelin bipod https://alnk.to/gVPiEBd Both are very well made and rather quick to deploy, but they are not quite stable enough for the competition oriented endeavors I have been focusing on.  

For competition, it has been predominantly large diameter inverted leg tripods, like Zeiss' Max Duty kit and Triple Pull Ckyepod.  Inverted leg tripods are measurably faster to deploy and adjust when on the clock.  Triple Pull Ckyepod gives me the flexibility to shoot prone, sitting or kneeling in a pinch.

For hunting, however, I have been using the Spartan gear I listed above because it is light, easy to pack, fast to deploy and exceedingly well made.  It also really helps that the legs of the Ascent tripod come off for easier packing and for use as hiking sticks (that is highly useful when packing meat out and I like the idea of not needing to carry around separate walking sticks.

Most of my hunting rifles that I am not willing to attach a bipod to on a mostly permanent basis are set up for Spartan's Magnaswitch adapter.   It is slick, unobtrusive and can be used to snap either a bipod or tripod in.  It is not quite as stable at distance as a proper large diameter match tripod, but it is very fast to deploy and stable enough for my hunting purposes.

In the last few years, tripods have become an indespensible tool precision shooting when terrain is not conducive to shooting prone.  We use tripods for observation and target ID with binoculars and then immediately switch to using them for shooting support.  That is where things start to diverge a bit.

Some people clip the rifle into the Arca head of the tripod (that's what I have been doing lately).

Some keep a tripod table clipped in and do both glassing and shooting off of a bag sitting on top of the tripod table (that's what I started out with originally, but managing extra gear took too long.  I am more efficient now, so it might be time to re-visit this).

Some of the top competitors use two tripods for front and rear support (that's more gear manipulation than I am comfortable with).

When there is a front support, whether a tall bipod or a prop of some sort or just a convenient terrain feature, tripods are routinely used as a rear support to stabilize the butstock of the rifle.  That is what's commonly referred to as "tripod rear".

I have been trying to keep things simple and mostly just shot with the rifle clipped into the tripod.  I got quite competent at it when shooting at the range, but it has been a bit of a struggle in the last two matches (I also had some health issue in parallel, but I suspect that it had more to do with me screwing things up under time pressure than health concerns).

Still, while I continue to practice shooting with the rifle clipped into the tripod, both standing and kneeling, it was time to expand my horizons and try to master various variants of "tripod rear" support.

That is when I stumbled onto Spartan's CP Brace that offers a completely different approach to using a tripod for two point rifle support.

 It is a very clever idea.  They are, essentially, creating a bridge betweeh two legs of the tripod that has a compact tripod head attached to it.  That is the front support.  The rear support is the tripod's third leg where, similarly to the conventional "tripod rear" setup, you use your support hand to anchor the buttstock of the rifle to the leg of the tripod.

Like everythign Spartan makes, CP Brace is not cheap, so I figured I should take one for the team, do some experimentation and let you know what I find.

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Will HICAR and 6.5CM+Peak kill the M7 and 6.8x51?
One part of my hopes that it will. On the other hand, I hope that it will not.


Either way, it is going to continue to be a mess.

Last month, powers that be issued a solicitation for the HICAR program:
https://sam.gov/workspace/contract/opp/b1a57529aa574e8ba220e0311434733e/view

HICAR stands for "Hypervelocity Improved Capability Assault Rifle"

The solicitation is specific to SOCOM, rather than the larger branches of the military.  However, I strongly suspect that it is a harbinger of smarter things to come than the general issue of anything chambered for the 6.8x51 (aka as 277 Fury in the civilian world).

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Visiting with TacomHQ

This week was my kids' spring break, so we ended up going on a road trip of sorts.  We flew to Houston, rented a car, visited the Space Center, checked out Galveston, then drove up to Dallas.  My dayjob is in Dallas and I need to visit the office occasionally.  Truthfully, I need to visit the office more often than I currently do, but given my family situation that is a little tricky.

My kids are very good travel companions, so we decided to drive back to Albuquerque instead of flying.  The way the timing worked out, we had a day to make a detour and drive up to Arkansas to visit John Baker and his Tacom HQ operation.

I've known John for a few years.  He has visited with me about three years ago to talk about his their reticle idea and a few other things  

I think the reticle idea is sound and we should see a version of it in a scope soon enough.  I'll do a thorough coverage at that point.

This time around, the reticle was not the main reason behind my visit.  John is a creative guy and they do several interesting things there.  Everything they do is clever and outside the box.  For example, to the best of my knowledge, they were the first to come up with different ways to shift the POI for ELR shooting with their TARAC devices.  Alpha and Bravo TARAC devices use prisms to shift the zero of the optic, but a predetermined angle.  I have a flip-up Alpha TARAC set up to help with my subsonic ELR pursuits.  Bravo TARAC attaches the prism to the objective of the riflescope which works beter with large objective designs.  Since Tacom came up with it, the idea has been pirated by a couple of people, most prominently by Nightforce.  Technically, Tacom has a patent on it, but this appears to be a situation where a large company (Nightforce) shamelessly muscled a small company (TacomHQ) out of their IP, knowing fully well that they have more money for lawyers.  To be fair, John does not talk about it too much, so this is just a guess on my part (although I am sure I am going to get a nastygram from Nightforce lawyers for posting this.  They seem to really enjoy pushing small independent guys around).

Charlie Tarac uses a periscope instead of a prism to optically add slope for ELR shooting.  Delta Tarac does mostly the same things except it also offsets the line of sight laterally to avoid the mirage from the barrel.

The new thing with TARAC devices for this year seems to be an adjustable version of the Charlie.  There is a large side wheel that allows you to dial up to 900MOA of extra slope.

The reason I wanted to spend a little time with Tacom was the structured barrel.  I first ran into this concept a few years ago and thought it was an interesting idea.

Initially, my plan was to pick an appropriate action and have John make me a 300NM structured barrel for an ELR bolt action rifle.  I still want a 300NM and I might put one together eventually.  However, I never quite pulled the trigger on that for a few reasons.  One is that I simply have very limited use for such a gun.  I still want one, but I do not have easy access to a place wehre I can really stretch the legs of a caliber with that kind of capability.  The reason I wanted to put one together with a structured barrel is that they are are getting very good lifetime out of these and they are very easy to get to shoot properly.  

They have several version of the structured barrel design, but fundamentally they start with a 1.5" diameter barrel blank and mill out a bunch of material.  The most disinctive features are deep longitudinal cylindrical channels drilled parallel to the bore.  The start at the muzzle and go back toward the chamber.  They do not make it all the way to the chamber.  On the outer surface of the barrel, there are additional featuers designed for eliminating vibrational nodes and increasing surface area for better heat exchange.  There is quite a lot of technical informaiton on their website: https://tacomhq.com/structured-barrels/

Structured barrels look very beefy because they start out from large diameter blanks and they are decidedly not light-weight barrels.  However, by the standards of typical match barrels they are on the lighter side of things because of how much material has been removed.  Given their impressive vibration dampening advantages, a few months ago I shifted gears and started leaning toward putting together a large frame AR around Tacom's structured barrel.

With the precisely calculated mechancial structure, these barrels acomplish two very complicated things simultaneously: they are harmonically dead and they do not get hot.

During my visit, we shot two guns with structured barrels: a 6.5CM AR-10 and a 300NM bolt gun.

We did not do mag dumps or anything that silly.  However, after 10 rounds of rather rapidly fired 6.5CM, the barrel was warm, but not hot.  Temperature distribution was arguably the most remarkable part.  Using an infrared thermometer, it was easy to show that the warmest part of the barrel was around the middle (near the gas block on the semi-auto),  The breech end of the barrel was cooler to the touch and measure at a lower temperature.  Basically, the barrel never got very hot and whatever heat it accumulated was shed very rapidly.

The feel of the recoil impulse is really odd in that it is completely muted and there was no muzzle rise to speal off.  I suspect a part of the was the muzzle brake, but this lack of discernible resonant frequencies made the recoil cycle extremely gentle.  I was shooting an IPSC at 350 yards and the recoil impulse never moved the reticle off the plate.  I fired the last four shots as rapidly as I could pull the trigger.  Everything was on the plate.  The rifle was not light at right around 14lbs with the scope, but I expected a lot more movement out of it even with the muzzlebrake.  Most gas guns have this slight "pitchiness" to them and I saw none of that.

The 300NM boltgun was slightly heavier, but with the much more powerful round the recoil did move the reticle off of the target, but not by much. 

I never lost sight of the target during the reocil impulse and the feel was, again, very muted and controllable.  I am not sure how heavy the boltgun was, but definitely less than 20lbs.  I would guess it was around 17lbs, but I'll check with John.

While both guns were very impressive, the semi-auto shot unlike any other gas gun I have ever pulled the trigger on.  No gas gun ever has a truly free floated barrel, since there is a gas block attached to it.  However, the combination of the structured barrel with a unque way that John has of putting the upper together, is the closest I have seen to date.

He bonds the barrel extension to the upper receiver and then screws a shouldered barrel into that.  The upper receiver is the Aero M5E1 Enhanced since the beefy upper receiver extension helps decouple the handguard from the barrel.  Also, the rather beefy structured barrel needs a large diameter handguard which this is.  The gas block they make is a custom affair that is probably better described as "tunable" rather than adjustable.  It is not designed for making frequent adjustments.  The idea is to tune your gas system for perfromance and reliability, then leave it alone.  I plan to do exactly that.

Since I was heading this way, I brought the necessary pieces with me for John to put together a 6.5CM upper for me.   Originally, I was thinking of doing it in 6XC for local PRS matches, but now that I shot with it, I want to try using it for NRL Hunter as well.  I think I can make weight without too much trouble.  I'll stick with 6.5CM in order to make power factor for Hunter matches.

Saying that I was impressed would be a gross understatement.  The feel of this gun is absolutely unique and it has recoil control behavior of a 25lbs gun in a 14lbs package.  It is quite remarkable.  Now, in the grand scheme of things, with my nearly 300lbs bulk backing up the gun, recoil control is a relatively straightforward affair.  Since my kids were there with me, I had both of them shoot both guns and watched the recoil cycle very carefully.  The guns barely moved even with a much smaller human behind them.

I know it sounds like magic, but it isn't.  I am not a mechanical engineer, but I spent a good amounf of time going over the materials and thinking through what they are doing with these barrels.  The science behind it is pretty solid.  I am not seeing any obvious holes in their foundational reasoning.  The execution is difficult and the barrels are not cheap.  Aside from good ideas, it takes a lot of skill and know-how to make these.  There is a good chance I will make a permanent switch to these barrels on what I consider my "heavy" precision guns while sticking with the Fix as lighter guns they way they were originally intended to be.  When I say heavy, I mean sub-20lbs with everything and light is sub-13lbs with everything (scope, suppressor, bipod).

Before I wrap up, let's get back to the heat management argument for a moment.  The 300NM I shot was significantly accurate and it is at a bit over 2800 rounds.  That sounds outlandish given that is nearly triple of I would expect out of this caliber.  However, if the chamber never gets very hot, it is possible.  I really want to know how long the 6.5CM John is building for me will last.  I have high hopes.

 

 

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