DarkLordOfOptics
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ATHLON Midas CF Tripods

This year’s SHOT show was a first in many ways: first since COVID started, first time several of companies I intend to visit were not there and first time I managed to convince my brother to come along with me. Some years ago I managed to get him involved with this shooting hobby of mine, so it seemed like SHOT show would be of interest to him. Naturally, I had a more selfish purpose in mind: he is a better photographer than I am and I wanted better pictures. Perhaps, because we were both there, we ended up spending a lot of time looking at different tripods, including the new line of carbon fiber designs from Athlon. Two of those tripods showed up on my doorstep as I was heading to the airport for a work trip. It seemed only natural to turn them over to my brother for the initial look since I wasn’t around anyway. He tends to look at tripods primarily from a photography oriented standpoint, so I figured that’s a good start. I spend more time shooting guns off of tripods than cameras, so I will be adding that angle later on. I am better familiar with the various tripods out there used for precision shooting and based on the somewhat cursory look I have taken so far, Athlon is offering one hell of a value. The tripod looks to be made by the same OEM (at least on the surface of it) that makes Leofoto and Vortex Radian tripods. However, given everything Athlon bundles with theirs, they are undercutting the competition by $300-$500 depending on where you look. I'll dish out some abuse and see how they hold up, but as far as value goes, I am really impressed with what I have seen with these so far.
After this initial look, my brother held onto the CF29, while I took the CF40. We'll spend some time abusing them and if nothing breaks, we'll switch the tripods around and see if our impressions match up.

Everything further down is written by my brother. He is a member here, so if you have any specific questions, tag @Inekk

Athlon Midas carbon fiber tripods introduced this year come in four different sizes of leg diameters from 29mm to 40mm. We decided to look at the smallest ( Athlon Midas CF29 https://bit.ly/39LLDNr ) and the largest of the four ( Athlon Midas CF40 https://bit.ly/3KWxM3u ). Both models look similar enough from 100 yards away, and only when you put them side-by-side the beefiness larger model is evident. CF29 maximum height is 65” and CF40 maximum height is 71”. The other differing components besides the size of the legs are the plate, and the ball head. The larger model has 100mm base, and the smaller has 75mm base. The larger model has straight leveling base tensioner handle, while the smaller one has a triangular tensioning nob.

Both tripods came with:
a COMPLETE set of every imaginable soft gear
TWO options for the base: simple flat base with a hook on the bottom and bowl leveling base with tensioner handle. Quick web search demonstrates that adding bowl leveler easily adds about $200 to the price of the tripod, and Athlon includes them as standard equipment.
A very functional carrying bag with two handles and a permanently attached adjustable shoulder strap.
A detachable shoulder strap that can be attached to the tripod itself.
Leg spikes with three allen wrenches are in the side pocket along with the manual. These can replace the rubber feet if you are taking your tripod into the rough terrain.
Removable cloth wraps with molle system on two of the legs. At first it’s confusing, until you locate a shoulder pad that can be attached to those specifically to move your entire set up without even having to close the legs!
The last but not the least soft accessory is a Velcro-attached tripod hammock.

None of these are typically included in a standard package of tripods of comparable size. Finding everything included in one reasonable price, makes it a bargain for any photographer/shooter who needs a steady set of legs for long telephoto work.

If one is looking for a tripod for photography work only, the 29mm version would be more than adequate. Athlon rates CF 29 model for up to 33lbs and CF40 model up to 88lbs. Naturally, it comes with added weight. CF29 weighs only 5.5lbs, while CF40 weighs nearly 3lbs more (8.4lbs). My prediction is that CF29 can support more. I currently weigh 220lbs, and CF40 didn’t even flinch when I hang from it while legs are completely extended.

Both tripods come with an Athlon branded ball heads. Both are massive and have three knobs: one massive knob on one side and two smaller knobs on the other side. The large knob is to adjust/lock the movement of the ball. The smaller on the bottom is to lock/unlock the fluid panning of the ball head. The smaller know slightly above is called “Friction Control”. I only needed to adjust the friction control when I had the largest lens with gimbal adapter (Induro GHBA). This accessory allows using the usual ball head with very large telephoto lenses and locking the ball head down is paramount to avoid a catastrophe. Both ball heads (from CF29 and CF40) have no problems with this task.

The bowl tensioners are not exactly the same on these two models. CF 29 has triangular knob, as you can see in the picture below. CF40 has a longer straight handle instead of a knob. These are all the hardware accessories: the ball head, the Arca-Swiss plate, the bowl with bowl tensioner, and a flat plate with a hook. You can save a bit of weight and use a flat plate with a hook, or opt for a greater adjustability and use the bowl with the tensioner. CF29 comes with 75mm bowl. CF 40 comes with 100mm bowl.
The legs have standard three angles. The black spacer that allows you to change the angles has Athlon logo on it. This worked fine, but this assembly seemed like the “flimsiest” part of the tripod.

There are two bubble levels: one in the base of the legs and one in the clamp of the ball head. Surprisingly the one that came with the CF29 ball head fell out when we were taking it out from the package for the very first time! We were able to find it and a drop of general-purpose glue solved the issue. We looked on the bottom, and there was some glue there, but it clearly failed at the manufacturing. No problems popped up since we fixed it.

Here you can see the angle that you can adjust the bowl by itself. I found it useful in the field. The least precise way to adjust the level of the base of the legs is to manipulate the length of the legs. One can’t help it if you on a slope, but I always to try to minimize these adjustments. The legs lock with a common twist lock, not a clamp. You can’t really “see” if you forgot to lock one segment or not. I personally prefer the clamps for that reason, but these are not an option in Athlon line up. To be fair, many people prefer the twist locks because of lower profile, and less chance of catching on things, be that closing, straps or vegetation.

Changing from flat base to bowl with tensioner is very easy. Just relax the clamp, push the safety button (blue arrow) and pull out. I found that if the clamp is not tightened after the replacement, the safety button will still prevent the bowl or the flat plate from falling out, but it would not be held firmly enough for long exposure photography.

This is the lowest angle to bring the base down to the ground. CF29’s lowest height is 9”. CF40’s lowest height is 10”

There is a little height difference between CF29 and CF40
The height of the tripod is evident here. The person holding it here is 6’1” tall. Unless you are over 6’4” there is very little chance that you would ever need to extend the legs of either tripod fully.

The shoulder pad installed allows one to move the whole set up from place to place without changing any angles, legs, etc.

Interestingly the quality of the accessories was not the same between two tripods. Some of the stitching of the shoulder pad in Midas CF40 model is suboptimal. Midas CF29 came completely fine, with no hanging threads, and perfectly straight suturing lines.

Preliminary Conclusion:

If I google “what is the heaviest photography lens?”, there are some incredible monsters out there such as Sigma-300-800mm-Ultra-Telephoto-Cameras at 11lbs for $8K. CF29 would handle it easily with even the largest DSLR attached.
On the other hand Canon 1200mm f/5.6 weighs 36 lbs. would be too heavy for CF29, and it would only set you back about $80,000.
And finally, Sigma 200-500mm f/2.8, that exceeds CF29 weight limit at 35 lbs. This green monster would set you back about $30,000. I have never seen this lens in real life, but I guess if you can justify spending that kind of money for your photography the extra $300 and extra 3lbs of weight of CF40 would not be a problem for you!

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Area 419 Hellfire Ti Brake

I was looking over my past reviews and realized that I havn't really done a video on the Hellfire Ti brake from Area 419.

In the grand scheme of things, I am not big on brakes. However, you do not always get what you want and I do have two firearms equipped with brakes.

One is an Encore muzzleloader that launches a 275gr bullet at 2400fps out of a 9lbs gun. It is unpleasant without a brake.

Another is the Stag Pursuit in 6.5PRC that you see in the attached video. I put it together as my "restricted state" gun and I chose a brake where I though I would get the best muzzle flip control at the lowest weight rather than the most muzzle control at more weight than half of my suppressors.

https://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/area-419-hellfire-ti-self-timing-brake/?ref=fl0iza41
Hellfire Ti is still loud, but not as obnoxious as dedicated competition brakes. It does control muzzle rise exceedingly well despite compact size and sub 3 ounce weight.

00:08:24
Aftermarket ND magazines for Tikka T1x

Tikka T1x is wonderful.
They are stupid accurate right out of the factory for not a lot of money.
The magazine it comes with is adequate, but not ideal.
I tried to get a +5 extension for it, but that disintegrated on the second stage of a rimfire side match we had in Raton.
A gentleman who was shooting right after me with his daughter was running two T1X rifles flawlessly using a metal magazine of some sort.
It turned out there is a Canadian company called ND Supply that makes metal 10rd and 15rd magazines for T1x.
It is not cheap at $70, but I got one and it has been flawless.

https://ndrshootingsupplies.com/15-round-magazine-tikka-t1x-22-lr/

00:05:17
PA PLxC 1.5-12x36 First Look at the scope and the Griffin Mil G2 reticle

Here are some initial thoughts on the scope and the reticle.
Overall, I like what I see.
I am not crazy about some features of the reticle, like the ranging bars and the aiming chevron, but in this implementation, they do not get in the way much.
The chevron is not my preferred aiming point, but in a scope of this size it works fine.
https://alnk.to/cb65zpi

At first blush, there might be a couple of things I'd do differently with this scope, but a lot of that is really just personal preference.

As is, the way this scope is conceptualized, is very true to the MPVO idea.

00:10:19
April 06, 2026

I have a spare TL3 so I'm putting together a new bolt gun project. I ordered an 18" light sporter contour barrel in .223 Wylde so it can shoot both .223 and M193 ammo for a SHTF/survival type rifle. What light weight optic would you recommend for this rifle? Maybe a PLX LPVO or.......? Thanks as usual!

Quick heads up: 20% off on all Vortex products at Primary Arms

PA is running a Vortex promotion where you get a 20% discount on Vortex products with the code "VORTEX" applied during checkout.
They seem to carry a pretty complete Vortex lineup:
https://alnk.to/9xn4JiQ

At 20% off the new 4-24x44 Razor Gen3 would be an interesting option https://alnk.to/cwVXpdp among other things.

Career Changes

I would like to take this opportunity to announce that I will be tapering down my online activities since I decided to shift careers and will be taking over as head of product development at a new entity called Swaroforce-Nightovski that is currently being formed by merging Swarovski and Nightforce with primary backing coming from Counter Sniper optics who plan to license their bertrillium zantitium coatings for these new products.
In order to properly market these devices, I will be integrating many marketing and product development innovations to further build on the success of Swarovski and Nightforce product lines.

New riflescopes will feature ultra wide angle eyepiece with approximately 120mm eyepiece housing diameter, come predrilled with bullet holes in the scope body and will integrate a strike plate on the bottom of the objective bell in order to double as a hammer and a baby seal "quiet time" enforcement tool. The turrets of the riflescope will be made entirely of faceted Swarovski ...

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Visiting with TacomHQ

This week was my kids' spring break, so we ended up going on a road trip of sorts.  We flew to Houston, rented a car, visited the Space Center, checked out Galveston, then drove up to Dallas.  My dayjob is in Dallas and I need to visit the office occasionally.  Truthfully, I need to visit the office more often than I currently do, but given my family situation that is a little tricky.

My kids are very good travel companions, so we decided to drive back to Albuquerque instead of flying.  The way the timing worked out, we had a day to make a detour and drive up to Arkansas to visit John Baker and his Tacom HQ operation.

I've known John for a few years.  He has visited with me about three years ago to talk about his their reticle idea and a few other things  

I think the reticle idea is sound and we should see a version of it in a scope soon enough.  I'll do a thorough coverage at that point.

This time around, the reticle was not the main reason behind my visit.  John is a creative guy and they do several interesting things there.  Everything they do is clever and outside the box.  For example, to the best of my knowledge, they were the first to come up with different ways to shift the POI for ELR shooting with their TARAC devices.  Alpha and Bravo TARAC devices use prisms to shift the zero of the optic, but a predetermined angle.  I have a flip-up Alpha TARAC set up to help with my subsonic ELR pursuits.  Bravo TARAC attaches the prism to the objective of the riflescope which works beter with large objective designs.  Since Tacom came up with it, the idea has been pirated by a couple of people, most prominently by Nightforce.  Technically, Tacom has a patent on it, but this appears to be a situation where a large company (Nightforce) shamelessly muscled a small company (TacomHQ) out of their IP, knowing fully well that they have more money for lawyers.  To be fair, John does not talk about it too much, so this is just a guess on my part (although I am sure I am going to get a nastygram from Nightforce lawyers for posting this.  They seem to really enjoy pushing small independent guys around).

Charlie Tarac uses a periscope instead of a prism to optically add slope for ELR shooting.  Delta Tarac does mostly the same things except it also offsets the line of sight laterally to avoid the mirage from the barrel.

The new thing with TARAC devices for this year seems to be an adjustable version of the Charlie.  There is a large side wheel that allows you to dial up to 900MOA of extra slope.

The reason I wanted to spend a little time with Tacom was the structured barrel.  I first ran into this concept a few years ago and thought it was an interesting idea.

Initially, my plan was to pick an appropriate action and have John make me a 300NM structured barrel for an ELR bolt action rifle.  I still want a 300NM and I might put one together eventually.  However, I never quite pulled the trigger on that for a few reasons.  One is that I simply have very limited use for such a gun.  I still want one, but I do not have easy access to a place wehre I can really stretch the legs of a caliber with that kind of capability.  The reason I wanted to put one together with a structured barrel is that they are are getting very good lifetime out of these and they are very easy to get to shoot properly.  

They have several version of the structured barrel design, but fundamentally they start with a 1.5" diameter barrel blank and mill out a bunch of material.  The most disinctive features are deep longitudinal cylindrical channels drilled parallel to the bore.  The start at the muzzle and go back toward the chamber.  They do not make it all the way to the chamber.  On the outer surface of the barrel, there are additional featuers designed for eliminating vibrational nodes and increasing surface area for better heat exchange.  There is quite a lot of technical informaiton on their website: https://tacomhq.com/structured-barrels/

Structured barrels look very beefy because they start out from large diameter blanks and they are decidedly not light-weight barrels.  However, by the standards of typical match barrels they are on the lighter side of things because of how much material has been removed.  Given their impressive vibration dampening advantages, a few months ago I shifted gears and started leaning toward putting together a large frame AR around Tacom's structured barrel.

With the precisely calculated mechancial structure, these barrels acomplish two very complicated things simultaneously: they are harmonically dead and they do not get hot.

During my visit, we shot two guns with structured barrels: a 6.5CM AR-10 and a 300NM bolt gun.

We did not do mag dumps or anything that silly.  However, after 10 rounds of rather rapidly fired 6.5CM, the barrel was warm, but not hot.  Temperature distribution was arguably the most remarkable part.  Using an infrared thermometer, it was easy to show that the warmest part of the barrel was around the middle (near the gas block on the semi-auto),  The breech end of the barrel was cooler to the touch and measure at a lower temperature.  Basically, the barrel never got very hot and whatever heat it accumulated was shed very rapidly.

The feel of the recoil impulse is really odd in that it is completely muted and there was no muzzle rise to speal off.  I suspect a part of the was the muzzle brake, but this lack of discernible resonant frequencies made the recoil cycle extremely gentle.  I was shooting an IPSC at 350 yards and the recoil impulse never moved the reticle off the plate.  I fired the last four shots as rapidly as I could pull the trigger.  Everything was on the plate.  The rifle was not light at right around 14lbs with the scope, but I expected a lot more movement out of it even with the muzzlebrake.  Most gas guns have this slight "pitchiness" to them and I saw none of that.

The 300NM boltgun was slightly heavier, but with the much more powerful round the recoil did move the reticle off of the target, but not by much. 

I never lost sight of the target during the reocil impulse and the feel was, again, very muted and controllable.  I am not sure how heavy the boltgun was, but definitely less than 20lbs.  I would guess it was around 17lbs, but I'll check with John.

While both guns were very impressive, the semi-auto shot unlike any other gas gun I have ever pulled the trigger on.  No gas gun ever has a truly free floated barrel, since there is a gas block attached to it.  However, the combination of the structured barrel with a unque way that John has of putting the upper together, is the closest I have seen to date.

He bonds the barrel extension to the upper receiver and then screws a shouldered barrel into that.  The upper receiver is the Aero M5E1 Enhanced since the beefy upper receiver extension helps decouple the handguard from the barrel.  Also, the rather beefy structured barrel needs a large diameter handguard which this is.  The gas block they make is a custom affair that is probably better described as "tunable" rather than adjustable.  It is not designed for making frequent adjustments.  The idea is to tune your gas system for perfromance and reliability, then leave it alone.  I plan to do exactly that.

Since I was heading this way, I brought the necessary pieces with me for John to put together a 6.5CM upper for me.   Originally, I was thinking of doing it in 6XC for local PRS matches, but now that I shot with it, I want to try using it for NRL Hunter as well.  I think I can make weight without too much trouble.  I'll stick with 6.5CM in order to make power factor for Hunter matches.

Saying that I was impressed would be a gross understatement.  The feel of this gun is absolutely unique and it has recoil control behavior of a 25lbs gun in a 14lbs package.  It is quite remarkable.  Now, in the grand scheme of things, with my nearly 300lbs bulk backing up the gun, recoil control is a relatively straightforward affair.  Since my kids were there with me, I had both of them shoot both guns and watched the recoil cycle very carefully.  The guns barely moved even with a much smaller human behind them.

I know it sounds like magic, but it isn't.  I am not a mechanical engineer, but I spent a good amounf of time going over the materials and thinking through what they are doing with these barrels.  The science behind it is pretty solid.  I am not seeing any obvious holes in their foundational reasoning.  The execution is difficult and the barrels are not cheap.  Aside from good ideas, it takes a lot of skill and know-how to make these.  There is a good chance I will make a permanent switch to these barrels on what I consider my "heavy" precision guns while sticking with the Fix as lighter guns they way they were originally intended to be.  When I say heavy, I mean sub-20lbs with everything and light is sub-13lbs with everything (scope, suppressor, bipod).

Before I wrap up, let's get back to the heat management argument for a moment.  The 300NM I shot was significantly accurate and it is at a bit over 2800 rounds.  That sounds outlandish given that is nearly triple of I would expect out of this caliber.  However, if the chamber never gets very hot, it is possible.  I really want to know how long the 6.5CM John is building for me will last.  I have high hopes.

 

 

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Here is an interesting question I got after the last livestream
I do read all comments

I got an interesting question via Youtube after the last livestream.  Here is it is verbatim:

"Ilya I hope you read the comments. I’ve got an optics question that I can’t seem to find an answer to. 
In reference to competition style scopes. Ones that seem geared towards PRS or other similar styles of shooting. Is there some good reason that the manufacturers constantly put out stuff with a low end mag that is basically unusable? Weight? Clarity? Something else?
I’m thinking of things like the K540i, Vortex 6-36, Tangent, Zco. I’ve never seen anyone shoot these scopes below 10x and most of their reticles are completely unreadable at low magnification. Why not start the low end at something like 10x or 12x and use a similar or lower zoom ratio? A 10-30 seems much more useful in PRS compared to a 5-25 since it’s my understanding that a lower zoom ratio is easier to make."

The biggest reason is simply marketing.  People who actually compete are a relatively small minority.  They do not really need low magnification.  Most people who spend money on scopes are looking at specs and a large magnification ratio is more marketable.  There are of course other practical reasons too.

When you design a riflescope, you are generally trying to hit multiple birds with one stone.

For example, if you want it to appeal to some potential military contracts, you need some sort of a viable low magnification to use with clip-ons.  Many of the clip-ons available to the military work pretty well on higher magnifications, but they generally want to have low pwoer in the 4x to 7x range.

As far as the reticle not being usable on low power, that is a consequence of making reticle very thin for use on high power.  This is also where military applications and civilian competition applications have different needs.  More military oriented reticles tend to be slightly thicker and I often prefer those.  

However, the simple truth is that reticle illumination pretty much solves that problem nicely since most low power use is in low or fading light.

The extended range features of a reticle (christmas tree, etc) seldom come into play in low light, so if the reticle simply has something like an illuminated cross, it works very well.

For what it is worth, even in daylight, I shoot my Tangents below 10x all the time, though not much belwo 10x.  In NRL Hunter matches, for example, since I am pretty new at this and have a hard time finding the plate, I figured out during my very first match that keeping my 7-35x Tangent on 9x, really helps me get behind the rifle quickly and get it stable quickly.  As I got a little better at getting into a proper shooting position efficiently, I bumped it up to about 12x.  When practicing, I routinely keep magnification low when shooting off of props.  When I am not pressed for time and shoot a bit further out, I'll bump up the magnification a little to have a better look at the mirage.  However, I virtually never shoot above 20x unless I am screwing around with some very small targets at close ranges (like the 1/4" hanger on the KYL rack) which is mostly done with rimfires and airguns.

Moving on.... a few years ago when I was chatting with a guy who designs riflescopes for a living, I asked him that the ideal magnification ratio is, where you have a good enough magnification range without any really significant optical compromises.  He said that it is right around 5x, i.e. 5-25x, 7-35x, etc.  When riflescope optical systems are designed, they are not all ground up designs.  For example, you can take a well worked out erector system and use it in a range of scopes.  LPVOs are a little different, but you can use more or less the same erector and eyepiece for several different designs: 2-12x, 3-18x, 4-24x, 5-30x can have very significant part commonality.  Noone is itching to design a standalone 3x erector just for the highest magnification scope because it just adds extra cost and might not offer any advantages beyond potentially slightly lighter scope and somewhat easier assembly/alignment.  

The idea of a competition dedicated high power riflescope that is 10-30x or something along those lines comes up every few years as does the concept of a dedicated 14x fully optimized for matches.  Every time, it fails the basic test of economics: how much will it cost to develop vs how many you might sell.

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Zenith Rifle by Alpine Riflecraft
First Look at The Ultimate Mountain Rifle

As many of you are likely aware, I am heading out to Montana for a mule deer hunt in a few days.  I will also have an additional cow elk tag, since I did not draw anythign in New Mexico.

My original plan was to borrow one of the MegaFix prototypes from Q.  However, all three properly fucntioning prototypes of the MEgaFix they have are in Africa taking down a broad range of animals.  The way I go hunting usually involves two rifles.  One primary, which is typcially something I am doing an article on and one backup which is something I know works in case I need it in a pinch.

My backup rifle is the OG Fix chambered for 308Win.  You have seen this gun many times over the years.  It was the subject of a dedicated video.  

I hunt with it and occasionally shoot NRL Hunter matches with it (shot two this year).  

As configured, it clocks in at a bit under 11lbs with the scope, https://alnk.to/af179CG, bipod, full length Arca rail from Sawtooth and LSP vertical grip.  I could make it a little lighter, but after some consideration, I decided to keep it in this configuration.  Eventually, I will upgrade it to Area 419 rings (I have been slowly switching to them almost across the board), but beyond that I plan to do absolutely nothing with it until I finally shoot the barrel out.  Ammo is a different ballgame and I am about to embark on an experiment with NAS3 cases, but that's a story for another day.

I still wanted somethign new to test, so I reched out to my Guns & Ammo editor to see if he has any ideas.  He usually does and this case was not the exception.  He connected me with a gentleman who owns a Canadian company called Alpine Riflecraft.  They are on a mission to make the world's best mountain hunting rifle and the Zenith is the product of their efforts.

I have now spent a couple of days at the range with it and have some early impressions to share.

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